Athough I sold most of my 1/72 kits, I kept this one. I had built it a number of years ago, but that one did not turn out well, particularly the decals. I was determined to do a better job this time around, and was rather pleased with how it turned out.

Construction did not present any major problems. Although I've learned to avoid using Academy decals, in my experience their kits go together quite well. Before starting construction, I looked through my aftermarket decals to find a set to use for this build, knowing that I had several Typhoon sheets. When I looked closely, I realized that all my aftermarket sheets were for car-door Typhoons, whereas this kit represents a bubble top.

I found a review of an Xtradecal sheet dedicated to the Typhoon, but I didn't want to spend thirteen bucks or so for a kit that was about ten. I noticed that one of the subjects on the sheet, HF-S, had no special markings and was personally inspected by King George VI. The lack of special markings meant I would not have to paint any invasion or identification stripes, a chore in 1/72 and something I wanted to avoid. I also figured such a plane would not have any underwing stores, another plus, so I decided that would be the plane I would model. I had Techmod sheet 72042, which did not have those exact codes, but by splicing different codes I could come up with the right squadron markings. I did not get the serial number though - I used DN421, whereas the actual plane was MN454.

I primed with Tamiya Grey Primer, from the 40 ml bottle, thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. It sprayed very well. For the yellow on the front of the wings, I used Model Master Enamel RLM 04, which is somewhat close to RAF Trainer Yellow (I believe that is the actual color). The fuselage band and spinner were painted Tamiya XF-21 Sky. I used Tamiya RAF colors for the exterior - XF-83 Medium Sea Gray 2 for the bottom, and XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 and XF-81 RAF Dark Green 2 for the top. I used Eduard CX-061 mask to mask the canopy.

For the pre-decal gloss coat, I used Future, cut with denatured alcohol with a bit of glycerin added as a retarder. Although many folks spray Future right from the bottle (and usually insist that everyone else do the same), I have never gotten great results that way. This method worked a bit better for me. As mentioned above, I used Techmod decals. They only needed about eight seconds in hot water to come free, and went on well. I used Micro Set as a setting solution. I used Micro Sol on most spots where the decal needed softening, but in a couple of spots, such as the port fuselage, I had to use Solvaset. I was afraid it might hurt the decals, as it is rather strong, but it didn't.

Once the decals were dry, I attached the landing gear and the pitot tube. I then gave the model another gloss clear coat to ensure that everything had an even sheen. I then sprayed Model Master Acryl Flat Clear as a post-decal coat. The landing lights were attached, and then the windscreen and canopy. After attaching the canopy, I realized that I had the windscreen on upside down. I was able to remove it, turn it around, and re-glue it.

Page last updated June 15, 2023.